JJS walks you through various configurations and uses, and in video 2, he covers assembly, including reallocating ‘wall warts’, soldering, and the proper configuring of Anderson Connectors.
Resource Links from the videos above:
Anderson Powerpole Connectors 20 pair
RIGrunner 4008
12V LED Strip Light, Flexible Light Strip
TEKTON 3775 8-in-1 Electrician’s Combination Tool
5-in-1 Electronic Soldering Kit with Tool Carry Case
Optional:
Bernzomatic Micro Torch Kit (Butane powered)
12 Gauge Silicone Wire 10 Feet
Heat Shrink Tubing Tube Sleeving Wrap Cable Wire 5 Color 8 Size
Thanks for the overview. You provided an Amazon link to the powerpoles. Can you comment on wire sizes? (assuming you’re using 12V power sources) Have you standardized all connectors on #12 wire? If not, are different contacts required for different wire gauges?
I ‘try’ to standardize using #12 wire. However, when running from my battery directly to a power strip such as a RigRunner, I’ll use a heavier #10 wire. For some of the smaller 12v plug/accessory wires, those are often 18 or 20 gauge wire, which works just fine for lower amperage items, such as an LED light strip, as set of speakers, or USB (5v) charging adapter/socket.
Thanks John – ordered 50 pair for $37 on ebay. Search ‘sermos 50 pair’ for the deal. They are compatible with the Anderson connectors.
JJS,
Thank you for the informative video(s)!
Had a couple thoughts while watching.
1) My biggest customer is in the ag-feed additives industry. We implement control systems which apply additives to the crops as they are being harvested (baled, or chopped.)
Out on the farm, corrosion is a big challenge, especially when working with anything from 12V high amperage, to low voltage signals. Equipment sits outdoors year around and needs to be ready to run when crops are ready to harvest.
Applying dielectric grease on connector terminals helps to prevent oxidation and / or corrosion, even near the automotive lead-acid battery (it can also be used on your vehicle battery terminals, for maintaining optimal electrical contact.
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REMEMBER Ohms Law? E=I*R (volts = amps * resistance)
So to solve for amps, I=E/R… even an ohm of resistance will limit RF wattage substantially! I=E/R, so if E=12V, R=1 ohm, then (I=E/R)= 12V / 1 ohm = 12 amps, resulting in total power of (P=E*I) = 12V * 12A = 144 watts, including wire and connection losses.
But look at it another way, 12V battery passing amperage through a 1-ohm “connection”, to a radio which WANTS 12V at 10 amps (120 watts, effectively a 0.12 ohm load). A 1-ohm connection to the battery is over EIGHT TIMES the resistance of the radio and will result in the radio operating at (I=E/R)= 12V / (1 ohm + 0.12 ohms) = 10.7 amps, but only (E=I*R)= 10.7 amps * 0.12 ohms = 1.2V applied to the radio (12 watts) – which is a non-functional 120 watt radio, attempting to operate without enough voltage, because it is starved for amps. (But in this situation, a 2 watt radio might work just fine, because the connection loss will only be about 0.17 volts, leaving the vast majority of the battery voltage for the radio.)
Insufficient wire gauge, or excessive wire length, are also sources of resistance which reduces power to your equipment. That resistance is 100% efficient at converting battery power into heat (0.1 ohms at 10 amps, is a drop of 1V and a loss of 10 WATTS converted to heat), instead of RF energy. So given a choice, always lean toward over-sized, rather than under-sized wires.
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Back to dielectric grease: it is a silicone grease (silicone can get to be very messy, so apply only to the contact mating surfaces, where it is needed) and is non-conductive. Dielectric grease prevents oxygen from reaching the surface of the terminal and also water. (oxygen and water are nasty stuff to metals, especially if, say, sulfuric acid is present.
I know that dielectric grease is available at trucking supply houses, such as Six-Robblee’s (not to promote them over anyone else). Truck lighting is always a concern and a BIG expense for truckers, if stopped by the police for non-functioning light(s), at something like $130 per non-functioning light, in WA (even for marker lights). Road salts are murder on exposed electrical connections.
Note: it may be a bit more expensive per ounce, but all the hardware stores probably have “bulb grease”, which is dielectric grease in an itty-bitty tube.
2) If making the cables DURABLE is important (could be life and death matter some day!), then supporting the wire between the terminal (crimp) and the insulation is very important. Most wire breaks occur in that area, because, without proper support the bend in the wire occurs over a very short span, causing metal fatigue. Copper does not like to be repeatedly, sharply bent. Multi-stranded wire is far better than solid conductor, BUT when you solder the crimp (which is a good thing!), you typically make the multi-stranded wire INTO a solid conductor wire, because solder rapidly wicks along the strands, toward the insulation.
The cable assemblies JJS showed us in the video can last for a very long time, with a little care and detailing. No sharp bends and no corrosive environments, if at all possible! Since you don’t know what environment you might need to store your cables in (e.g. buried in a mud puddle?), “Be Prepared” for the worst.
From my POV, the Anderson connectors appear to have the same plating on the terminals, as the much bigger connectors, such as those used in battery connectors in fork-lifts and high amperage battery chargers. They appear to be a very good choice and are very likely to remain serviceable for a long time, in spite of environmental conditions and heavy usage.
Sorry for the rambling. I’m a radio newbie (passed Technician Class test recently), but not new to wiring, nor to electronics, so I really hope this is a helpful contribution.
Juliet Bravo 11
I have been using PowerPole connectors for quite some time. I take all of my wall-warts, cut the cable, and put them in the DC path. One thing I have found is that you really need to purchase the crimping tool and insertion/extraction tool for the best results. The ratcheting tool is simple to use and provides a much better crimp than I got using the simple crimping tool. A little expensive but well worth it.
[…] Many of you have asked about the LED Light Strips we used during our power outage due to the windstorm here in the American Redoubt. This picture shows the light strip strung across the dinning and living area at the Redoubt Ranch. These provided great lighting using very lower power consumption (less than 1 amp). We hooked them up to a small battery using a Watts Up Meter and Anderson Connectors. […]
First, thank you so much for the wonderful videos on power pole connectors. I am now inspired to try and replicate a couple of the projects in the videos, before starting others on my own.
A question tho…In one of the videos you mentioned installing inline fuses. I didn’t see a clear shot of these fuses in the video. I’ve asked a couple of “electronics-friendly’ friends, and they weren’t sure either.
Would you please say a little more about this, maybe a link to what you are talking about? It would be a huge help.
Thanks,
Juliet1957